The Internet is filled with plentiful information regarding the setup of an aquaponics system, and much of that information can seem dauntingly complex and time-consuming. In an effort to make it less intimidating, I will endeavor to simplify the process for you today.
What exactly is aquaponics? It entails the integration of aquaculture and hydroponics systems to facilitate both fish and plant cultivation. However, is it truly as simple as I assert?
This question can be answered with both a yes and a no. Yes, because it can be made as easy as you prefer. However, no, as both aquaculture and hydroponics possess inherent difficulties in their respective systems. By integrating the two systems, you can minimize the difficulties to a few instead of a few dozen.
There are not many challenges one may face with aquaponics, and they can be resolved quite easily. Some of these issues include:
- Space
What are the possible locations for placing your fish tank and grow beds? Possible options:
- Any south-facing space just like a greenhouse.
- A basement, garage, or carport. If you use an enclosed space like a garage or basement you will need to invest in grow lights since sunshine and heat are essential for both fish and plants.
- A greenhouse. This is the absolute best place for an aquaponics system since you won’t need to provide a heater for the fish tank in cold weather.
- Equipment
Possible solutions:
- If you don’t have access to food-grade containers you can line the containers you do have with a pond liner.
- DO NOT use any containers that have been used to store chemicals or are comprised of any metal other than stainless steel. Avoid anything copper so that it doesn’t leech into your system since it can poison your fish.
- Any food-grade plastic containers large enough to hold 10-20 fish for a small system will work.
- Time
Possible solutions:
- An aquaponics system is not usable as soon as it is assembled. You will need to develop your bacteria colony before you can stock the fish tank and wait till you see how your fish are doing before planting your crops.
- It can take anywhere from 10 days to 3 weeks to allow the bacteria to find your system and develop a colony that will benefit your plants and fish.
In order to easily set up your system, it is essential to have the desired space where you plan to construct it. This article will specifically focus on the process of setting up your system within a greenhouse.
The equipment required for this task is as follows:
Aquarium for keeping fish
- This can be a large fish aquarium, a vinyl kiddie pool, or any food-grade plastic container.
- You will want to figure about 10 gallons of water for each fish. The ratio is 1 pound of adult fish to about 10 gallons of water. Stocking your tank with one fish per 10 gallons of water will help to keep your system balanced and reduce the amount of ammonia in the water and keep the pH in the optimum range.
Medium for growth
- Most DIYers setting up an aquaponics system will use pea gravel. It is relatively inexpensive and easily acquired.
- You can also use coir, peat moss, or expanded clay pellets.
Beds for cultivation
- These can be any other food-grade containers that you have access to. They should be between 6-12 inches deep although the deeper containers will allow you to grow a more varied number of plants in each bed if you are working with a limited amount of space.
- Many people will simply build a grow bed and line it with a pond liner. Doing this allows you to make it to the size you want and you can choose to stack grow beds for more planting space and add legs so that it will fit over your fish tank.
The Freshwater Master Test Kit remains unchanged in terms of meaning.
- A test kit is necessary to keep control of the chemicals that can build up in your fish tank. If there is too much ammonia in the water or the pH is too high it can harm your fish. If ammonia is high in the tank then your beneficial bacteria aren’t getting the nitrites they need to live and the plants aren’t getting the nitrates the bacteria produce.
- These kits test freshwater pH, ammonia, nitrite, high-range pH, and nitrate levels to help you control those levels more easily.
Water pumps are devices used to move water from one location to another.
- You might be using an intermittent flow system since it is the easiest to set up and operate. However, you can also use either the continuous flow or ebb & flow systems as well.
- Choosing a water pump is very important for “turning over the water.” This filters and aerates it so that your fish remain healthy and the water does not become toxic with the amount of ammonia contained in the suspension.
- An intermittent flow system means that the grow beds will be flooded once an hour in a 15-minute on and 45-minute off cycle.
- Things to consider when choosing the right pump are fish tank volume and the distance between your pump and the top of your grow bed where the water will flood the growing medium. We will have to make a lot of assumptions here. Your calculations and measurements may be different from the picture we are creating.
- Assumption No. 1: Your fish tank is 100 gallons. One-hundred gallons divided by 24 hours means you will want to move 4-5 gallons per hour. However, you will not want to get a pump based solely on that figure.
- Assumption No. 2: Your fish tank is 2.5 feet deep and your pump will be sitting 6 inches from the bottom. Elevating your pump means you won’t get a bunch of solid fish poo gumming up your pump.
- Assumption No. 3: There are about 1.5 feet between the top of your fish tank and the bottom of your grow bed.
- Assumption No. 4: Your grow bed is 12 inches deep.
- With these four assumptions made, we can determine what size pump you will need to purchase for your system. Simple math skills will aid you here. 30 inches (fish tank depth) – 6 inches (pump elevation) + 18 inches (space between tank and bottom of grow bed) + 12 inches (grow bed depth) = 54 inches. This means that your head height, or the distance between the pump and the top of the grow bed, is 4.5 feet.
- The best pump to get for the system described will be one that will cycle 5 gallons or more per hour with a head height (or “rise”) of about 5 feet. You will also need to consider the size of the tubing that you are using for your pump. There may be an efficiency loss of 15-30 percent the greater your head height and tubing size are.
Flood And Drain Aquaponics – Any Good?
Aquaponics is gaining popularity at a fast pace due to its efficient and effective food-growing method. What’s even more appealing is that it is accessible to anyone! Once you delve into aquaponics, you will come across terms like “flood and drain aquaponics” or “ebb and flow.”
Undoubtedly, flood and drain aquaponics stands as one of the most popular DIY approaches for achieving any goal, just like in every aspect of life where there are various methods available.
The Principles of Flood And Drain Aquaponics
In order to establish an aquaponics system, you will require various supplies to transport the water from the fish tank to your grow beds.
You have the option to include both a filter and a biofilter in your system. Additionally, it is necessary to incorporate grow media into your grow bed, which will be further explained shortly. The growing media enables the plants to extend their roots and access water that is abundant in nutrients.
However, the crucial aspect of your system is likely the bacteria present on the growing media, as they transform fish waste (ammonia) into nitrates that serve as nourishment for the plants. In turn, the plants purify the water, guaranteeing its suitability for the fish.
When it comes to providing your plants with the necessary water to survive and grow, two options are available in order for a system to function efficiently with minimal maintenance requirements.
Flood and drain systems
The pump transfers water from the fish tank to the grow bed, ensuring that most of the grow media will be submerged by pumping an adequate amount of water. You have the freedom to determine the desired water level. Afterwards, the water will be drained back into the fish tank using a siphon mechanism.
When the siphon is functioning, the pump continues to supply water to the grow beds. However, the speed at which the water is drained exceeds the rate at which it is pumped, causing the water level to fluctuate.
Uninterrupted movement
I advise against using this setup because it can lead to oxygen supply issues for the roots. The other option is to maintain a constant water flow, preventing flooding in the grow beds while still providing an opportunity for the plants’ roots to absorb the necessary nutrients from the water.
Different Systems
Flood and drain aquaponics is being considered. For optimal results, it is recommended to have the grow bed placed above the fish tank so that water can flow back naturally through gravity and a siphon.
However, it is important to note that there may be a short delay of a few seconds after the pump floods the grow beds before the water returns. This delay can result in a decreased water level in your fish tank. Thus, it is necessary to ensure that the water level does not become excessively low.
These are the most frequently used techniques for operating flood and drain systems.
- IBC totes
I personally consider this as the best place to begin. Setting up your system is simple, and you can easily find many locations offering free IBC totes. Just ensure that if you choose a second-hand one, it is properly cleaned before introducing water, fish, and plants.
To create two containers, one stacked on top of the other, you will need to remove the top third of your tote along with the cage. Afterward, invert this section and place it on the remaining part of the IBC tote.
A helpful suggestion is to trim a portion from the front of the lower area of the tote, just sufficient for easy access to your fish.
By placing the fish in the lower container, you can pump the water to the top and allow it to flow back into your fish tank through a siphon, effectively aerating the water. This method eliminates the need for an additional air pump in your setup.
- Barrelponics
This essentially follows the same method as an IBC tote, except you will require a 55-gallon (or larger) food barrel. Ensure that the barrel is specifically designated for food, as it can be cleaned and used with confidence. If the barrel has previously contained chemicals, you cannot determine whether they still persist in the plastic.
Once more, you will have to cut off the upper third and flip it over to make a fish tank and growing bed. The choice of creating a support structure, however, is up to you.
Grow media
After acquiring both a growing container and a fish tank, your next step is to establish a connection between the two using a pump and minimize the use of pipes. Once this is done, you can proceed to introduce your growing media. This step holds significant importance as it not only serves as a substitute for soil, but also provides a secure base for the plants’ roots.
In addition, it serves as a habitat for the bacteria responsible for transforming fish waste, specifically ammonia, into nitrates, which serve as nutrients for your plants.
- Clay pebbles (hydroton)
Clay pebbles, also referred to as hydroton, possess a lightweight composition. Through artificial aeration, a porous surface is created, thereby enhancing the area for bacterial growth. Measuring approximately the size of a marble, each pebble exhibits a smooth texture and effortless handling.
Having a large pore space despite its small physical size facilitates quick drainage of water in your grow bed, which is both environmentally-friendly and permits easy removal of plants, including their roots.
In warm climates, the outstanding drainage of this system, which makes it highly suitable for short flood and drain aquaponics cycles, can become a drawback as it lacks water retention capabilities. Consequently, there is a possibility that the plants may become dehydrated and start wilting.
It is important to note that the pebbles have a tendency to float during the initial months, which raises the likelihood of them being sucked into your pipes and filters.
Siphons
It is crucial to include a siphon in order to effectively drain your growbed. The siphon serves the purpose of draining the entire growbed while the water pump remains operational, returning the water to the fish or sump tank.
- Bell siphon
The bell siphon, which is widely preferred, consists of a tube that extends from the base of the growing container and reaches up to about 1 inch below the top of the growing media. This configuration effectively creates a dry area, preventing the growth of algae.
There is an outer cylinder surrounding this tube which protrudes beyond your media, serving as a barrier to prevent the grow media from entering the siphon. The lower portion of the outer cylinder features small openings that permit the water to enter, causing it to rise until it reaches the same level as the inner tube.
When the water level rises, it exerts enough pressure on the tube to expel the air, thereby enabling the water to descend back into the fish tank. Subsequently, as the water level decreases, the siphon regains air pressure, halting the flow of water.
This option is both very simple and highly effective.
