The choice of an aquaponics grow bed is crucial for the functioning of the rest of your aquaponics system. It serves as the foundation and nurturing space for your fruits and vegetables.
The aquaponics grow bed, which occupies most of the space, will also yield the majority of the food produced by your system.
If you need assistance in selecting the appropriate aquaponics grow bed, consider the following helpful tips.
Aquaponics Grow Bed & Fish Tank Relationship
To achieve a successful aquaponics system, comprehending the optimal proportions between the grow bed and the fish tank is imperative.
A highly effective system is achieved when there is an optimal balance among the quantity of fish waste, the performance of the biofilter, and the plants that utilize the fish waste as their food source.
After numerous years of experimentation and learning from mistakes, a set of general guidelines has been developed.
- For beginners to aquaponics, you should start off with a simple 1:1 ratio of grow bed to fish tank. The total volume of your grow bed should be equal to the total volume of your fish tank. This will ensure that your fish tank has sufficient filtration.
- Once you gain more experience and you’re ready for a larger system that has an even bigger fish tank, you can expand it to a 2:1 grow bed to fish tank ratio. This will enable more filtration in your system which is better for your fish’s long-term health.
Rules For Your Aquaponics Grow Bed
It is crucial to adhere to the following rules when searching for an aquaponics grow bed for your system. Not adhering to these rules will result in a disastrous outcome.
- The grow bed must be sturdy enough to withstand the weight of the aquaponics grow media (clay media = 450g per litre), water (1kg per litre) and plants. There’s also added force from the constant filling and draining of water and expansion of plant roots. Choose strong and thick material for your grow bed.
- Choose material that is non-toxic and safe for food as your aquaponics grow bed will be the home for plants, bacteria, and worms.
- The material you choose must also not alter the pH levels of your system. Avoid materials such as metal because they can corrode very quickly which can lower your tank’s pH and cause an imbalance in your system.
- Your grow bed should be deep enough for a wide variety of plants to be grown and to have adequate filtration. The industry standard is 30cm deep.
- Make sure that your aquaponics grow bed is waterproof to ensure that no water escapes from your system. This is very important since there will be plumbing fittings that enter and exit the grow bed and fish tank, so everything must be watertight. This is where marine-grade silicon and rubber gaskets come in handy.
The selection of an appropriate aquaponics grow bed depends on the type of aquaponics system you have, such as vertical, IBC (intermediate bulk containers), or closet system as there are numerous options available.
To ensure a satisfying experience for yourself and others, it is important to meticulously strategize the structure of your system and adhere to the aforementioned rules. This way, your aquaponics system will have a pleasing appearance, be adaptable, and serve its purpose effectively.
Rules of Thumb to get started in Aquaponics
While there are exceptions to every rule mentioned below, it is important to note that none of the following guidelines are fixed. However, they do present commonly agreed principles that, if followed, can lead to successful aquaponic gardening.
If you plan to engage in aquaponics commercially, it is recommended that you pursue professional training to assist you in designing a profitable system. The advice provided here is specifically intended for amateur media-based backyard or hobby setups.
For new, hobby growers, it is recommended to use the media bed system type.
What are the reasons for not considering NFT or Deep Water Culture (also known as raft or DWC)?
A media bed carries out three (3) filtering functions.
- mechanical (solids removal)
- mineralisation (solids breakdown and return to the water)
- bio-filtration (a good environment for all of those beneficial organisms that also exist in good soil)
The media bed serves as both the place for plant growth and performs all tasks within a single component, simplifying the process.
The presence of a media in media gardening enhances plant support, making it more akin to traditional soil gardening.
Understanding and learning becomes easier.
A step-by-step thought process is required to rephrase the text below while retaining the same meaning. No additional information should be included, and no information should be removed. “Grow Bed” Bed used for cultivation and growth.
To ensure the growth of a wide range of plants and achieve thorough filtration (only for small home systems), it is recommended to have a minimum depth of (300 mm), which is considered the industry standard.
It is advisable to choose materials that are safe for food and do not impact the pH of your system. However, make sure to avoid materials like concrete or media with limestone content.
The text below explains the concept of a fish tank. A fish tank is an aquatic enclosure used to house and display fish.
Aquaponics systems that have a capacity of 1000 litres or larger appear to be the most stable. Larger volumes are recommended for beginners as they provide more leeway for mistakes, as incidents take longer to have an impact in larger volumes.
It is necessary for the materials used to be safe for food and should not affect the pH of the system, taking caution about the presence of limestone in concrete or media.
Stocking density refers to the number of individuals that occupy a given area or volume.
A very safe stocking density for new systems is 20kg (22lbs) of fish per 1000 ltrs (250gal).
If you are tempted to exceed this stocking density, think step by step and consider that disaster could potentially occur.
The following are the steps to consider when planning your system:
- Determine the total grow bed area in square meters.
- From the grow bed area, determine the fish weight required (kg) using the ratio rule 5 kg (11 lbs) of fish for every square meter (9.5 sqft) of grow bed surface area, assuming the beds are at least 300mm (1′) deep.
- Determine fish tank volume from the stocking density rule above.
If your plan is to have 2 grow beds measuring 1 square meter each, you will have a total growing area of 2 square meters (19 square feet). To accommodate a mature weight of no more than 10kg (22 lbs) of fish, you will need a fish tank with a minimum capacity of 500 liters (125 gallons).
Media is a term that refers to various communication channels or platforms, such as television, radio, newspapers, and the internet, through which information is transmitted to a large audience.
It is important for the item to be inert, meaning that it will not decompose or change the pH of the system.
LECA, also known as Hydroton or CANNA clay, is costly.
The media types that are most widely used are Lava Rock and Gravel, primarily due to their lower cost.
If you decide to use gravel, make sure you know where it comes from and avoid using any that might contain limestone which could alter your pH levels.
The flow of water.
- You should flood, then drain your grow beds. The draining action pulls oxygen through the grow beds.
- If you are operating your system with a timer you should run it for 15 minutes on, and 45 minutes off. If you are running auto siphons, they will determine the time of the flood and drain cycle.
- If you are using an Auto Syphon to flood and drain the media bed the Auto Syphon device will set the flow rate (this is the preferred method).
- You want to flow the entire volume of your fish tank through your grow beds every hour if possible, but this may be difficult to achieve in small home systems under 1000 litre (250 gal) capacity.
- Now consider the “head” or how far against gravity you need to move that water and use the sliding scale that is on the pump packaging to see how much more pump capacity you need. Don’t make the mistake of purchasing a pump that is too small in pumping capacity. As a rule of thumb for small home systems get a pump that has a pumping capacity of twice the fish tank volume,
Initiating your system or engaging in the process of cycling.
After the cycling process, the presence of ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates should be considered.
The ammonia and nitrite levels ought to be lower than .75 ppm.
If you notice a sudden increase in ammonia levels, it is possible that you have a deceased fish within your tank.
If Nitrite levels increase, it is possible that there has been damage to the bacteria environment in your system.
If the levels stabilize, do not feed your fish until then. In extreme cases, dilute the existing solution by doing a 1/3 water exchange. Nitrates can increase up to 150 ppm without causing harm. However, if it goes beyond that, it is recommended to add another grow bed to your system.
is essential for sustaining life.
To ensure there is ample oxygen in your fish tank, you can follow these steps. First, use a separate aeration device and divert a portion of the water from flooding and draining your grow beds directly into your fish tank. It is important to note that the only situation where there can be an excess of oxygen in the tank is if you are forcefully ejecting the fish out of it. Conversely, if there is not enough oxygen being introduced into the tank, your fish will show signs of gasping for air at the water’s surface. However, it is crucial to avoid reaching this stage as it may cause irreversible damage to your fish’s respiratory system.
The time at which to include plants in a certain situation.
Once you begin cycling your system, be prepared for the possibility that it may not thrive during the initial few weeks of the cycling process.
If you add Maxicrop Liquid Seaweed to your tank when planting or Seasol at a rate of ½ litre per 1000 liters, your plants will establish themselves much faster. Afterward, administer one CAP full per day until the system is fully established.
If you are utilizing a Fishless Cycling technique, determine the appropriate time to introduce fish.
Fish can be added to the tank once nitrates are detected and the levels of ammonia and nitrite have reached their highest point and then decreased to less than 1.0 ppm.
Rate of feeding
Feed your fish 1-2 times per day, giving them as much food as they can consume within a 5-minute timeframe. Cease feeding once the fish show disinterest in eating. Adult fish typically consume around 1% to 2% of their body weight daily, while fish fry can eat up to 7%. Be cautious not to overfeed your fish.
If your fish are not consuming food, it is likely due to stress, being exposed to temperatures outside of their ideal range, or lack of oxygen.
Worms, when thinking, should be done step by step, without adding or removing any information, while still conveying the same meaning.
Once your system has completed the cycling process and fish have been introduced, it is advisable to include a few composting red worms in each grow bed. The preferred type of worm for this purpose is the red wriggler.
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Aim for a pH level of 7.0 in your Aquaponics system. It is preferable to maintain a range of 6.2 to 7.2 since the pH tends to fluctuate and eventually lower once the system has stabilized.
This compromise involves a pH range of approximately 6.5 to 8.0 for the fish, 5.0 to 7.0 for the plants, and 6.0 to 8.0 for the bacteria.
It is recommended to test the pH at least once a week, and even more frequently, around 3 – 4 times per week. During the process of cycling, the pH generally has a tendency to increase.
After cycling your systems, it is likely that the pH will consistently decrease below 7.0 and will need to be raised using a buffer. If there is a need to decrease the pH, it is typically due to the water source (such as hard groundwater) or because there is a base buffer present in the system, such as incorrect media that may contain limestone.
If the pH drops below 6.4, the most effective approach would be using the best method for raising or buffering it.
- Calcium hydroxide – “hydrated lime” or “builder’s lime” or Calcium Carbonate
- Potassium carbonate (or bicarbonate) or potassium hydroxide (“pearlash” or “potash”). If possible, alternate between these two.
- Four times using a Calcium (as above) and the fifth time a Potassium )as above) when your system needs the pH raised. While adjusting the pH upwards, these additions also add calcium and potassium, which your plants will appreciate.
- While they work, be cautious about using natural Calcium Carbonate products (egg shells, snail shells, seashells). They don’t do any harm, but they take a long time to dissolve and affect the pH.
METHOD; Mix some of the powder with water into a slurry (1 tablespoon per 1000 litres (250 gals) of fish tank volume. Add to the system as far away from the fish tank as possible. Allow to slowly percolate through the system. Re-test pH 24 hours later and readjust if necessary.
Below is a list ranking the most effective techniques for reducing pH levels above 7.2 based on preference.
Be cautious when using the aquarium version of pH Down for hydroponics, as it contains sodium which can be detrimental to plants’ health.
The plants can utilize the nitrate or phosphate generated from other hydroponic acids, such as nitric or phosphoric.
Adding other acids to your system, such as vinegar (weak), hydrochloric (strong), and sulphuric (strong), should be a last resort as it could be stressful for your fish.
It is advisable to exercise patience and allow the system’s pH to naturally decrease, instead of resorting to aggressive remedies such as the addition of acids.
Exercise caution when introducing sodium-containing substances into your system, as they have the potential to accumulate over time and adversely affect your plants.
Using citric acid is not recommended because it has anti-bacterial properties that can eliminate the bacteria in your bio-filter.
